Riding doubled up on Ajaz’s scooter, we flew through the narrow maze of alleyways that is the Malviya Nagar neighborhood of New Delhi. Even Ajaz, born in raised in New Delhi, hadn’t been to the hidden mosque we were seeking, and he asked directions at every corner as we neared our destination. We dismounted outside an old, nondescript stone wall opposite unassuming apartment buildings wrapped with a rats’ nest of powerlines. The incessant honking of horns and eruptions from the surrounding city ring out as we take off our helmets, ascend the worn steps, and pass through a threshold into another time.
In a major world capital with such rich history, it can be hard not to feel like you’re sharing each experience with the masses. Long lines, selfie queues, admission tickets and locker tokens.. But if you know the right places to look, you can see Delhi in such a way that makes you feel like you’re truly discovering it for the first time
Begumpur Mosque
One of Delhi’s largest mosques - Begumpur is an unlikely sanctuary in the middle of the bustling city. Once you step inside, you feel transported to another time, as the noise of surrounding New Delhi slowly dies away, and you share the sprawling complex with only wild dogs and a loiterer or two. It’s truly haunting to try and picture this ruined mosque at the time of its pinnacle, and glimpse the masses of worshippers who would have visited this mosque on a daily basis.
Sultan Ghari is thought to be the first tomb in Delhi, predating even the Mughal era. I visited it during a state of renovation. Perhaps the tourism authorities realize what an untapped treasure they have on their hands, and are preparing to start receiving visitors in the new future. We saw men and women working to resurface the broken ground within the walled complex.
Bhool Bhulaiya is a tomb on the outskirts of Mehrauli. Right on the edge of a bustling fruit market near the bus station, you’re unlikely to find other tourists here, but are sure to be noticed by the locals, many of whom make this monument their regular hangout spot.
Madhi Masjid is a mosque of monkeys these days.
Jahaz Mahal
Rajon ki Baoli
Zafar Mahal - the summer palace of the last Mughal Emperor
Zafar Mahal
Unknown Tomb
Quli Tomb
Jamali Kamali Tomb